The Most Beautiful Walk in the World

The Most Beautiful Walk in the World

An Amble through the Cotswolds

By 

Karen Soro

Walking is NOT a sport. Walking is spiritual. Walking is a philosophy. You shouldn’t do it to see how fast you can go- you should do it to slow down, unravel your soul, be in the moment. At home in Memphis, Tennessee we love to walk. We walk around our lovely pedestrian friendly neighborhood and ramble up to the shops. We walk through Shelby forest. We walk along the Mississippi River. Anytime the weather permits and our schedules allow, you will find us roaming around outside looking for new places to explore.

I am not exactly sure when I knew that I wanted to walk along some of the ancient footpaths of England, but the idea had been brewing in my mind for quite some time.

Ancient footpaths crossing hills and dales, fording shallow, crystal clear rivers. Stiles crossing the old dry stone walls. Dappled sunlight, green grass, golden wheat, bleating sheep, thatched roofed houses covered in roses, quaint pubs......The Wind-in-the Willows kind of thing, thats what I wanted.

I contacted a company that specializes in making these dreams come true. It is called “Contours” and they offer hundreds of different walks across the United Kingdom (there are over 140,000 miles of footpaths in England and neighboring Wales). The first thing I told the good people at “Contours” was that we were not triathletes, we were not out to prove anything, and we only wanted a beautiful, easy walk that we could lose ourselves in. They suggested a circular route that would take us through some of the most idyllic countryside and villages in Britain. They would arrange an 8 day adventure which included 8 nights at wonderful bed and breakfasts and/or pubs. In addition, they would pick up our luggage each morning and deliver it magically to our next location. Meanwhile, armed with an ordnance survey map and well written directions, we would make our way on foot. Perfect!

Our journey began in Chipping Campden, a town in the Cotswolds about 110 miles northwest of London. Jill, the proprietor of “The Wolds End” bed and breakfast greeted us with a smile and showed us to our comfy room. We were there just long enough to drop our bags, we went straight into town, the adventure had begun.

Perhaps I should begin by explaining a bit about the area. The Cotswolds are comprised of about 800 square miles that have been being shaped by man for at least the last 6000 years. It enjoys the status of “Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty” which akin to being a National Park.  As of late, lets say beginning about 1000 years ago in medieval times, the area was important for wool production - in fact the wool was known as being the the best in the world. In the old English language “cots” mean sheep enclosures and “wolds’ means hills, so we were to ramble through “sheep enclosures in the hills”.  They built these sheep enclosures,manors, shops, mills, homes, churches and stone walls from oolitic limestone that was quarried from around the area. It is this limestone that gives these ancient structures  their beautiful and famous honey colored hue.

Chipping Campden is perhaps the loveliest of the Cotswold towns. In it’s heyday it was an important wool market and has many elegant pubs, inns and shops lining both sides of the narrow road. It is here that William Grevel, who was the model for Chaucer's merchant in the “Canterbury Tales” built his home, which is still standing proudly on the high street. There is also a quaint pub called “The Eight Bells” that was originally built in the 14th century by stonemasons to house the bells of the town’s perfectly preserved church - we had dinner and an ale there- what a PERFECT way to begin our journey!

The morning brought the first sunshine England had seen in three months! As the clouds parted we began walking out of the town. Soon the road narrowed into a path and the path narrowed into our first “kissing gate” which gives easy access into the farmers fields but acts as a barrier for the animals. Then through the fields, along the hedges, over stiles, and past tiny hamlets to the ever-so-quaint town of Blockley where we stopped at the Crown pub for some refreshment. 

....Turn right and follow the road as it bends left, passes over a stream and then bends right. At this point turn left by the fingerpost along a track known as“ The Duck Paddle”. Follow the track down to a stile and gates. Go over the stile and follow the path along the edge of the field to another gate and stile. Cross the stile and then bear right up the field, following the waymarks......

The afternoon found us in some of the most delicious scenery we had ever had the pleasure to enjoy. The undulating hills, the golden wheat fields dotted with bright red poppies and the unbelievable green brilliance that IS England left us drunk with gratitude. We could see the town Moreton-in-Marsh, from high on a hill long before we got there.

Moreton-in-Marsh stands at the crossroads of a Roman Road (Fosse Way) and the old London to Worcester coach road. In bygone years the town was an important staging post and it still has a large number of 17th and 18th century coaching inns.  At about 4:00 we reached our next inn- Fosseway Farm on the outskirts of Moreton-in-Marsh and almost directly on the footpath. As promised our luggage had arrived before us and was waiting in a lovely, light filled room at the top of the stairs! Our legs were tired (the pedometer said we had walked 10 miles!) but we got cleaned up and went out to explore the town. We had a drink at the Black Bear Pub which was bustling with locals and dined at The White Hart . Sleep came easy that night- in fact I can honestly say that I slept like a log every night of this adventure!

 Morning at Fosseway Farm brought a full english breakfast comprised of fried eggs, sausage, bacon, fried tomatoes, baked beans, toast, jam, coffee and tea (this is what we fueled up on each and every morning of this trip!) After breakfast we got early start leaving the Inn at 8:00. Next stop Stow-on-the-Wold!

....at the end of the wood continue towards the small gate in the fence, from here bear left across the field to the fence opposite. Turn right and follow the path beside the fence on the left hand side to a footbridge over a small stream.....

By midday we had reached a tiny village called Longbough where the tiny shop/ post office sold culinary masterpieces and handicrafts made by the local population. What a wonderful treat to walk through a fairy tale village, untouched by time, covered in climbing roses, whose only shop showcases the local populaces talents. It brought on a big smile. The feeling that you get while you walk slowly along, each field more beautiful than the last, each tiny hamlet more enchanting, is truly why one makes this trip. We continue on.....

We arrive at Stow-on-the-Wold which literally means “town on the hill” . Unlike most of the Cotswold towns which were built by streams and rivers in the valleys, this town was built on the top of a hill and commands magnificent views. In the daytime this town bustles with activity. There are lots of walkers converging from various paths (though it was rare that we ever saw another walker while on the path!) and there are tourists by the bus load. William Morris dancers are in the streets showing examples of how the Cotswold people danced 200 years ago. There are antique shops, pubs, art galleries and a fantastic tea house called “Lucy’s” where we stopped, sat in their charming courtyard and had high tea. Then on to our (my most favorite) B&B, the South Hill Farmhouse. As luck would have it the Australian Olympic Equestrian team were also staying there and their horses were being housed at a stable about a mile away! It just gets better and better......

We did 9 1/2 miles today and since we had a tub we made the most of it by buying some epsom salts and having a soak. Juliette, our hostess, made us a scrumptious breakfast and sent us on our way with sandwiches, apples, bananas and drinks in our daypacks because  there will be nowhere to stop for a refreshment until we get to our destination in Ford. Juliet suggests we change our route and go by the stables that are housing the olympic horses, which we do-and it blows our minds when the trail takes us right through the middle of the field with the horses in it!

.........go through the pedestrian gates of Jackdaw Castle, a training stable for racehorses. Follow the tarmac driveway to a way post on the left hand side. At this point leave the driveway and bear right across the gallops. Turn left and follow the path into Ford, a sleepy hamlet comprising a handful of house around the Plough Inn.....

We past through the ancient settlement of Condicote, then on past the Donnington Brewery on the Dikler River. The brewery was closed (Sunday) but the swans were swimming on the dammed up clear pool outside. The building dates back to 1291 when it was built as a mill for the nearby Broadway Manor but it has been a brewery since 1865. Once we had past the brewery there nothing else but stunning vistas, sunshine and wind playing in the wheat fields. One could really lose ones self. We were only brought back to reality when we realized that the path had petered out and, much as we tried we could not seem to get our selves back on track. After a few frustrating times ( and several miles) of retracing our steps we decide to head straight across a field that had been planted with rapeseed. Rapeseed is a large plant that grows chest high and has thick, meaty stalks. We could see a point on the horizon that we knew we should make our way toward, a conifer farm. Off we went, muttering, and a little flustered and making a deal with ourselves that we would go back the way we came if this route didn’t pan out. But it did pan out and once we were past the field we rejoined the footpath. We continued on our way for several miles to a huge, modern, race horse training facility known as Jackdaw Castle.The footpath led us right over the training track! (the instructions warned: Be careful! Look both ways down the track! Don’t get run over by a racehorse!)

We arrive at Ford- where the only thing in town is an amazing traditional 16th century Inn called The Plough.  What a place! The pub's large outside areas are brimming with people enjoying a bright sunny day out of doors and there is an antique car club parked up and down the road adding to the scene. We are shown to one of only 3 (very comfortable) rooms where we clean up and then head for the bar. There is nothing else to do but sit back and enjoy the ambiance of a truly great British Pub. We sat in the “snug” (a snug is  a cozy small room beside the main bar- now you know ) then later dined in the larger dining room. It was wonderful and again, we slept like babies! (The pedometer read 12.7 miles).

......cross Salters Lane to the fingerpost, “public footpath, Gloucestershire Way” next to a gate. Go through the gate and follow the footpath across the field to a kissing gate opposite. In the next field continue in the same direction to another gate. Go through the gate. At this point the path divides. Turn left and follow the path uphill........

Today our walk will take us to Winchcombe, a very attractive Cotswold town that was first inhabited thousands of years ago.There are many legends and tales that make the town very interesting. There is a neolithic burial site that suggests that people have lived there since at least 2500 BC .There is an alter cloth at the town church that was made by Katherine of Aragon and remnants of a destroyed abbey that was dismantled by the Parliamentarians during the civil war. Charles 1 sought refuge in Winchcombe several times. There are also amazing caricatures of the original stonemasons all around the outside of the church which you have to see to believe.

Today's walk was an absolutely beautiful journey- for most of the day we could look out and see for miles and miles across the checker boarded english countryside. The farmers were taking full advantage of the fine weather by mowing the fields. The cattle and sheep were happily grazing in the fields. White puffy clouds passed slowly overhead. Sunshine gently kissed our faces. This is what we had come here for!

.....go though the field containing Beckbury Camp, an iron age hill fort. Turn left and follow the path.......

This evening finds us at The White Hart on the Winchcombe High Street, where we dine , have our laundry done and rest up for tomorrows adventure which will take us to Stanton.

Can it get any prettier? I have to wonder because each day seems better than the one before it. Each scene is more beautiful than the last. Each moment seems to stop just a little for you to catch up and appreciate it. Walking. This is what it is about. This is why you do these things. There is no substitute. If you want to go fast- then go on....run, drive, fly....it’s not the same thing as walking. When driving through the countryside you are a mere spectator. Walking slows you down and inserts you into the landscape. 

Can it get any prettier? Yes, the answer is yes. And it does. 

The delightful walk between Winchcombe and Stanton leads us along the Cotswold Escarpment which command sweeping views. Oliver Cromwell (who is in my family tree) once sat upon one of the hills and watched as an abbey was dismantled down below. Huge chestnut trees dot the landscape. Sheep. Cows. The slate roofs that have been ever-present in the villages we had passed thru turn to thatch. If it is possible, the Cotswolds get more quaint. The charming town of Stanton only has one pub and no stores. Our hostess had thought ahead and made us reservations at the pub for dinner. Called the Mount Inn, it served ,as with all of the places we had dined, only the freshest local fare and proved to be a very popular place. 

The following day we walked back to the town we started in, Chipping Campden. On the way we passed through a town called Broadway. Idyllic and charming, this town provided some great window shopping and a place to get rejuvenated before we walked up the very long, steep hill to Broadway Tower. An 18th century folly (meaning it served no real purpose) Broadway Tower looks as if it came straight out of Grimm's fairy tales (where was Rapunzel?). Situated at 1024 feet above sea level, from there you can see 62 miles across England and into Wales beyond. From the tower to Chipping Campden the last leg of the walk turned into a panorama of riotous colors, sweeping views and spectacular scenery. It’s like they had saved the best for last! Tired but extremely satisfied and appreciative we walked back into Chipping Campden. Which under ordinary circumstances may have been the end of the trip, but no, our good friends from London -Alison, Andy, Gerald and Lynne -all met us there! After drinks, and a wonderful Greek meal  at Michael's  ( yes Greek- but thats another story)  we all adjourned to our B&B’s and slept like logs!

Want to go on a walk?

Contours Walking Holidays
Barton House, 21 North End
Wirksworth, Derbyshire, DE4 4FG
Tel: 01629 821900 (country code 44)

Email- info@contours.co.uk
www.contours.co.uk

Barcelona- A Travelogue

Okay, the first thing to say  is that 24 hours in Barcelona is not enough- but it’s all I had, so I made the most of it. It is also fair to say that I can pack more things into a one day period than most people can cram into two weeks, but hey, I am a pro at this thing called life! When life beckons- I go!

WHY would anyone stay in Barcelona for just one day, you ask? Well, let’s face it, the airlines are making the trip to Europe from Memphis hard these days. We wanted to go to Athens, Greece, but because of some strangeness in the air traffic world, in order to get there, we would have to go to Toronto, have a long layover, then Amsterdam with a 9 hour layover, then Munich, ….you get the convoluted picture. So instead of fighting it, we embraced it. We saw it as an opportunity to see some European Capitals that we had always wanted to see. So, with massive amounts of effort by Julie Butler at Peacock McCarty Travel, instead of sleeping at the airport in Milan, we were taking in the sights of Spain.

The first thing you notice about Barcelona is that it occupies a lovely location. It is ringed with hills, the Mediterranean Sea laps at its shores and it is washed with sunshine- Ah, yes, a very good geographical location indeed.

The second thing you notice is the foresight that went into planning this remarkable    (and very old) city. Broad, pedestrian friendly boulevards, 68 urban parks, and a huge promenade that runs the length of their oceanfront beaches (their beaches are the best urban beaches in the world) allows residents and visitors alike to fully enjoy the place. Vendors and buskers work their trades and the sweeping sidewalks are full of activity and life. The city has a program where the residents can, for about $50 a year, borrow any one of thousands of bicycles from one of the hundreds of stands dotted through out the city. So there are loads of people enjoying the fabulous weather while going from work to lunch or work to home, or out for the evening, you get the picture.

Our hotel, The Barcelo Raval, was amazing (thanks again, Julie Butler!) and located right off of La Ramblas, the famous main street in Barcelona that runs almost a mile and is lined with shops and cafes. Its huge, pedestrian friendly, cobblestoned median is filled with shopping stalls, artists, open air taverns and restaurants just as it has been for centuries. Start at the northern end of the street and walk down towards the sea.

At the southern end of La Ramblas, near the beach and by the statue of Christopher Columbus, is a tourist information booth where you can purchase tickets for the Hop On- Hop Off tour bus. This is a really good idea for people who want to make the most of limited time. You will want to see the work of Antoni Gaudi, the famous architect- no doubt you have heard of him- and since his work is sprinkled though out the city, a tour bus is definitely the way to go.

Gaudi is famous for his over the top whimsical style. He designed and built a cathedral along with some homes, gardens and public buildings. His master piece is a Cathedral called “Sagrada Familia” which he started in 1882 with construction continuing today. You can disembark the bus there, which apparently everyone does, but because the place is so absolutely packed it is hard to get a good view or even really appreciate it. Instead opt to jump off the bus at the Casa Mila, a famous home that was designed and built by the master.

The bus takes you through many of the different neighborhoods of Barcelona including the Palace. We jumped off the bus at the beaches, walked through a huge food market, had lunch at the Cathedral and saw ancient Roman ruins. We were back at our hotel in time to enjoy a sunset cocktail at “Bar 360” and a dip in the small rooftop pool, a perfect way to begin our night.

Friends had told us to dine at a place called Los Caracoles a restaurant located in the Gothic District not far off La Ramblas. It was founded in 1835 by the same family who runs it now. The place is like some medieval labyrinth with a central (and very busy) kitchen. The menu was great and the ambiance even better. A mariachi band roamed around playing acoustic renditions of songs by REM and making the entire experience slightly surreal. This place is busy at anytime of the night and day so be sure to make reservations.

The walk back down La Ramblas to our hotel now had a completely different vibe since it was now well into the evening. It was just as busy but now there were more performing artists and people lounging in the street side taverns. We made our way slowly back to the room, enjoying every second of it.

A taxi picked us up in the morning and took us back to the airport where we would catch our flight back to Memphis. The ride there was lovely and we past many places we had left unexplored…but that’s okay, it just gives us a good reason to go back!

Where To Eat-  Los Caracoles, 14 Escudellers…be sure to make reservations!

Where to Stay-  Barcelo Raval, 17 Rambla Raval

Prague- A Travelogue

“We have been lied to”-that was my first thought as I looked around this amazing, thriving city for the first time. You see, I am of an age when I remember the “Iron Curtain” and we learned in school that anything behind that “curtain” was poor and ramshackle. Those pathetic souls existed in hovels, stood in bread lines and wore thin scarves over their heads to ward away the driving snow. Maybe that is not what they told you but that is what my mind had conjured up.

So, imagine my surprise when I found this gorgeous city, just barely 22 years out of communism, full of life. Stores and restaurants are packed. Mercedes and BMWs ply the streets and well heeled business people and tourists alike are shuttled from one part of the beautiful, spotless city to another via clean trams, a metro subway, buses, commuter trains and even a funicular.

I have to confess that I had suspected it. My passion for exploring this world has put me in many situations where I have met many fellow travellers and I often pose to them this question: “what is the best place you what ever seen”? Prague is a hands down favorite of many folks and that was true even back in the early 90’s.

It is no wonder why! The city’s’ fairytale spires reach up over your head like magic wands. Cobblestone lanes meander in labyrinth fashion taking you from one stunning vista to another. Towers, that you suspect Rapunzel may still be captive in, stand on every corner. Huge stone plazas that have served as market places for centuries bustle with commerce. A romantic castle stands sentinel over it, the astronomical clock still chimes, apostles dance…and yes, a river runs through it.

 Prague has been standing since before the 9^th century, with the “old” town growing up around the Vysehrad Castle and the “new” town, meanwhile, growing up during the middle ages. From our hotels’ location, right by

Wenceslaus Square

and situated on the dividing line of “old” and “new”, it was an easy walk or ride to anywhere. The city’s  past is fascinating, from the myth of its founding princess to the Velvet Revolution, so before you go do some research because every step you take in this remarkable city is steeped in history. Here, I will just hit what I found to be the highlights:

The Astronomical Clock- located in the

Old Town City Square

, it was made, at the latest, in 1410, while the tower dates back to 1380. It stands testament to the knowledge of our ancestors and charts the course, not only of time, but all of the heavens, seasons and zodiac. Be sure to watch this clock twice: once in the daylight as the clock is striking the hour when the twelve apostles dance around and death, avarice and vanity make an appearance. Watch carefully! There are all sorts of things going on! Then, watch it again at night, when a cleverly orchestrated light show is projected on it and tells the story of history of Prague. Open air restaurants and taverns surround the tower, so get there early and grab a front row seat.

The Charles Bridge- Spanning the River Vltava and built in 1355- this amazing bridge connects the old town with the castle. Dotted all along it are 30 mostly baroque statues. Now open only to foot traffic, the place is alive with vendors and street performers. Take a stroll over it and walk towards the castle at sunset- just as the sun goes down musicians dressed in medieval costume stand on the top of the castle walls and play. I stood there stunned as they did a haunting rendition of John Lennon’s “Imagine”. Unbelievable! I still get goose bumps thinking about it. It will be one of those things I carry with me till the end.

The Vysehrad Castle- The stroll up or down the hill to the castle affords great views of the city and the self guided tour at the top is a must. There you will see the great halls of the palace where they would throw unpopular politicians out of the window

 ( an action called defenestration- what an interesting idea!), the “Golden Alley”  where the common people lived and the intricately built St. Vitus Cathedral.

TRAVEL TIPS- You will need a GOOD map! Buy one as soon as you get there- try to find the” city map-guide” PRAGUE 1:15000 with photos and texts. You can find them in the currency exchange shops around town.

Wear comfortable, low or heeled shoes- you are going to be walking a lot and the streets and sidewalks are cobblestone. Leave the cute designer heels at home.

Get up early and plan to stay out late! Some of the prettiest parts of the city are best seen before and after the crowds leave.

Bring a good camera! This place is a photographers dream!

We visited on the first week of September 2011- the weather was warm- pack shorts, sundresses, sandals and a light jacket.

How we got there, where we stayed and what we ate:

 Upon arrival at the Prague Airport we were whisked away in a limousine sent by the Sheraton Hotel (for an additional $80 roundtrip-if we had hired our own taxi it would have been $100).

Our hotel was The Sheraton at

Charles Square

, a lovely 4 star establishment in the heart of it all.

We had dinner at a wonderful, romantic restaurant located on the river front called The Hergetova Gihelna at Kampa Park-go at sundown- have reservations!

Karen Soro is “The Downtown Realtor” in Memphis, Tennessee. She and her husband, Tim, travel extensively. Her articles and/or photography has been published by Frommers Online, The Commercial Appeal, The National Sierra Club among others. You may reprint this article with permission- just send me an email.