Prague- A Travelogue

“We have been lied to”-that was my first thought as I looked around this amazing, thriving city for the first time. You see, I am of an age when I remember the “Iron Curtain” and we learned in school that anything behind that “curtain” was poor and ramshackle. Those pathetic souls existed in hovels, stood in bread lines and wore thin scarves over their heads to ward away the driving snow. Maybe that is not what they told you but that is what my mind had conjured up.

So, imagine my surprise when I found this gorgeous city, just barely 22 years out of communism, full of life. Stores and restaurants are packed. Mercedes and BMWs ply the streets and well heeled business people and tourists alike are shuttled from one part of the beautiful, spotless city to another via clean trams, a metro subway, buses, commuter trains and even a funicular.

I have to confess that I had suspected it. My passion for exploring this world has put me in many situations where I have met many fellow travellers and I often pose to them this question: “what is the best place you what ever seen”? Prague is a hands down favorite of many folks and that was true even back in the early 90’s.

It is no wonder why! The city’s’ fairytale spires reach up over your head like magic wands. Cobblestone lanes meander in labyrinth fashion taking you from one stunning vista to another. Towers, that you suspect Rapunzel may still be captive in, stand on every corner. Huge stone plazas that have served as market places for centuries bustle with commerce. A romantic castle stands sentinel over it, the astronomical clock still chimes, apostles dance…and yes, a river runs through it.

 Prague has been standing since before the 9^th century, with the “old” town growing up around the Vysehrad Castle and the “new” town, meanwhile, growing up during the middle ages. From our hotels’ location, right by

Wenceslaus Square

and situated on the dividing line of “old” and “new”, it was an easy walk or ride to anywhere. The city’s  past is fascinating, from the myth of its founding princess to the Velvet Revolution, so before you go do some research because every step you take in this remarkable city is steeped in history. Here, I will just hit what I found to be the highlights:

The Astronomical Clock- located in the

Old Town City Square

, it was made, at the latest, in 1410, while the tower dates back to 1380. It stands testament to the knowledge of our ancestors and charts the course, not only of time, but all of the heavens, seasons and zodiac. Be sure to watch this clock twice: once in the daylight as the clock is striking the hour when the twelve apostles dance around and death, avarice and vanity make an appearance. Watch carefully! There are all sorts of things going on! Then, watch it again at night, when a cleverly orchestrated light show is projected on it and tells the story of history of Prague. Open air restaurants and taverns surround the tower, so get there early and grab a front row seat.

The Charles Bridge- Spanning the River Vltava and built in 1355- this amazing bridge connects the old town with the castle. Dotted all along it are 30 mostly baroque statues. Now open only to foot traffic, the place is alive with vendors and street performers. Take a stroll over it and walk towards the castle at sunset- just as the sun goes down musicians dressed in medieval costume stand on the top of the castle walls and play. I stood there stunned as they did a haunting rendition of John Lennon’s “Imagine”. Unbelievable! I still get goose bumps thinking about it. It will be one of those things I carry with me till the end.

The Vysehrad Castle- The stroll up or down the hill to the castle affords great views of the city and the self guided tour at the top is a must. There you will see the great halls of the palace where they would throw unpopular politicians out of the window

 ( an action called defenestration- what an interesting idea!), the “Golden Alley”  where the common people lived and the intricately built St. Vitus Cathedral.

TRAVEL TIPS- You will need a GOOD map! Buy one as soon as you get there- try to find the” city map-guide” PRAGUE 1:15000 with photos and texts. You can find them in the currency exchange shops around town.

Wear comfortable, low or heeled shoes- you are going to be walking a lot and the streets and sidewalks are cobblestone. Leave the cute designer heels at home.

Get up early and plan to stay out late! Some of the prettiest parts of the city are best seen before and after the crowds leave.

Bring a good camera! This place is a photographers dream!

We visited on the first week of September 2011- the weather was warm- pack shorts, sundresses, sandals and a light jacket.

How we got there, where we stayed and what we ate:

 Upon arrival at the Prague Airport we were whisked away in a limousine sent by the Sheraton Hotel (for an additional $80 roundtrip-if we had hired our own taxi it would have been $100).

Our hotel was The Sheraton at

Charles Square

, a lovely 4 star establishment in the heart of it all.

We had dinner at a wonderful, romantic restaurant located on the river front called The Hergetova Gihelna at Kampa Park-go at sundown- have reservations!

Karen Soro is “The Downtown Realtor” in Memphis, Tennessee. She and her husband, Tim, travel extensively. Her articles and/or photography has been published by Frommers Online, The Commercial Appeal, The National Sierra Club among others. You may reprint this article with permission- just send me an email.